🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.